Please help looked i tire section and search could not find answer...

Hello, new to the forum. I have a 2009 camry se 4cyl, with 17" inch stock alloy wheels. I need to replace all four tires which are 215/55/17



What is the widest tire I can put without adding spacers or anything else.

Just want a little wider stockier look.



thank you for your help...

Radio, Dome, Door lights do not work!

My radio, Dome and Door lights do not work. My clock also resets everytime I turn the car off. I have checked all of the fuses and they were good. I then checked the current to all of those fuses and there is no current coming through. Is there a relay that controls this? Any Ideas?

cv boot replacement

My drivers side cv boot is busted and leaking. Is there another alternative to having to replace the entire axle?

Reply 1 : cv boot replacement

yes, just get a boot kit.



it will come with two boots, two packs of grease, 4 clamps.

Reply 2 : cv boot replacement

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6shooter yes, just get a boot kit. it will come with two boots, two packs of grease, 4 clamps.

From where?

Reply 3 : cv boot replacement

Quote:

Originally Posted by R0dzilla7 From where?

From the dealer I think they are 30.00. I'm sure other places might have them also.

Reply 4 : cv boot replacement

I paid 49.99 plus tax. Stealership.

Reply 5 : cv boot replacement

About $30 for one boot kit from Sparks or Toyota of Dallas (TRDparts4u). I've done two now and know I ordered from one of those dealers...just don't remember which one.

Reply 6 : cv boot replacement

Quote:

Originally Posted by sntckr About $30 for one boot kit from Sparks or Toyota of Dallas (TRDparts4u). I've done two now and know I ordered from one of those dealers...just don't remember which one.

ive heard its a bitch changing them out.....take the axle off and what not. not cool

Reply 7 : cv boot replacement

Quote:

Originally Posted by R0dzilla7 ive heard its a bitch changing them out.....take the axle off and what not. not cool

The price you play for paying I suppose. It is cheaper than an new axle after all.



I've got two spares in my garage, so if a boot ever does go on me, I can swap it and rebuild the busted one with out keeping the truck out of commission.

DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

I was asked by a couple of people to do a DIY after I swapped my stock bulbs for LEDs. I beg for forgiveness in advance, it's my first DIY write up. This will stop hyperblinking cause by installing LEDs.



I used some photos other than those of my car because 1. it's too cold outside and 2. i'm kind of ashamed at how dirty my car is right now.



Approximate time to complete: 30 min.



Tools needed: Flat heat Screwdriver

Electrical Tape



Items I used for Install:



V-leds Switchback... Be sure to purchase CK type or you will blow fuses





24 LED Towers for Rear.. Mine depict 1157 because I installed into

Aftermarket LED Tails. Regular tail lights use 3157 bulbs





Pair of 3 Ohm Resistors from V-LEDs and Electrical Splice Connectors





Step1:

Install led bulbs





Remove these two clips and pull back carpet to expose back of tail light





Swap out turn signal bulb.. this would be the passenger side photo







To get to the front turn signal bulbs there is a push clip and a clip that uses a quarter turn (has a screw type head) to remove at the arrows. Remove these clips then pull back wheel well liner just enough to get your hand in to install new led bulbs.



If you open the hood you will be able to look down from above to see what you are doing.



2. Install Load Resistors





Take nut off of bolt with arrow pointing to it. This is where you will mount load resistor.





Connect one resistor wire to the green wire, the other to the white. I always wrap my connections with electrical tape as a precaution.



This is what your final result will look like.



Do the Same on the other side and close everything up.



Notes:

-Resistors will get hot when turn signals are on, the metal will dissipate most of the heat but make sure wires are not touching it.



-Resistors can be turned to face rear, there is more than enough room to do so.



-This is for a front and rear led setup. if you were to have just front or rear you would need to install 6 ohm resistors at the location of the leds.



Any questions let me know.

Reply 1 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

nice write up man! how much did u spend on the bulbs? also why didnt u just go with installing a led electronic flasher? i think that would have saved u all the wire clipping

Reply 2 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

I would have used an electronic flasher, but everything i have read online from others is thatit is difficult to find. Plus, i would rather not rip the dash apart.



$60.00 for the swirchbacks and $20.00 for the rear turn signals.

Reply 3 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

Very nice for a first writeup!



*Added to DIY Sticky thread*

Reply 4 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

how hot do the resistors get? what happens at night when you have your lights on since your parking lights are your turn signals?

Reply 5 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

Quote:

Originally Posted by diablo2184 how hot do the resistors get? what happens at night when you have your lights on since your parking lights are your turn signals?

the parking lights are on the second filament of the brake lights not the turn signals

Reply 6 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

i thought the turn signals are its own bulb....



i want to change the amber bulbs in the front headlights and taillights to LED bulbs. i am going to need resistors correct? on the headlights, the parking light is the same as the turn signal right? so wont that bulb always be on if i change it? and then flash when i use the blinkers?

Reply 7 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

Quote:

Originally Posted by diablo2184 i thought the turn signals are its own bulb.... i want to change the amber bulbs in the front headlights and taillights to LED bulbs. i am going to need resistors correct? on the headlights, the parking light is the same as the turn signal right? so wont that bulb always be on if i change it? and then flash when i use the blinkers?

oh sorry, i thought you were talking about the tail side. only the turn signal uses the resistor (reason why its hooked up to the rear) so parking lights on all the time will not heat up the resistor because it would not be in use. the resistor is hooked up to prevent hyperflashing and not for regulating voltage to the leds.

Reply 8 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

but will i need the resistors for the front turn signals as well?

Reply 9 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

the resistors on the rear is enough to put a load on the flasher relay. an easier approach would be getting a electronic flasher relay (which i could have sworn our corollas had from factory) and replacing that. then resistors wouldnt be needed at all.

Reply 10 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

so i wont have any issues with the front since its the same bulb (parking lights and turn signals)?



i heard that the electronic flasher relay prevents the light flashing when locking the car.....

Reply 11 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

Quote:

Originally Posted by diablo2184 so i wont have any issues with the front since its the same bulb (parking lights and turn signals)? i heard that the electronic flasher relay prevents the light flashing when locking the car.....

im sorry if im answering some things wrong, im having a hard time understanding your questions. Hope someone else can chime in.



you wont have any problems with the parking lights, its a whole different circuit. on the other hand the turn signals will still need the resistor connected to the circuit even if you only changed the front bulb.



i dont really know about the electronic flasher relay preventing flashing...that someone must be a guinea pig.

Reply 12 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

ok, i understand the rear section completely. i know i need the resistors so it doesnt cause them to flash fast. the rear bulb is only on when i turn the indicators on.



for the fronts, there is on bulb that is dual filament and it is the parking light (lights up orange when you turn your headlight switch to the first click). then when you hit the assembly to turn on your indicator signal left or right, the same bulb up front starts to flash. do you understand where i am coming from?



that was my initial question.....in reference to the Front turn signals, since they are also the parking lights, will the resistors get too hot when driving at night?

Reply 13 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

Quote:

Originally Posted by diablo2184 ok, i understand the rear section completely. i know i need the resistors so it doesnt cause them to flash fast. the rear bulb is only on when i turn the indicators on. for the fronts, there is on bulb that is dual filament and it is the parking light (lights up orange when you turn your headlight switch to the first click). then when you hit the assembly to turn on your indicator signal left or right, the same bulb up front starts to flash. do you understand where i am coming from? that was my initial question.....in reference to the Front turn signals, since they are also the parking lights, will the resistors get too hot when driving at night?

The front bulb has dual filaments as you stated, which means the bulb is actually two bulbs integrated together. they may share the same ground but the positive signal sent to each "bulb" is different so the resistor isnt used unless the turn signal is activated.





Image from V-Leds



hopefully that picture helps.

Reply 14 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap

ok got ya. so if i will need four resistors? one for each turn signal bulb?

Oily Mess!

There is a bit of a story here, so hang with me: I've thought for awhile my car has leaking valve guides/steam seals due to it smoking a bit on start up and using some oil (quart/1000 miles). No big deal right?



A few days ago I was out driving, and went to accelerate. Car hesitated a bit and I noticed for the rest of the drive the engine sounded a little flat. Given as I had just gone over rail road tracks and I've had a rusty baffle in my muffler for awhile now I figured it had just broken free. The flat sound didn't go away, and while the power seems to be there it's using more fuel.



Fast forward to a couple days ago. I get the car and start it and notice a burning smell. Not an oil burning smell, but like something rubber or a gasket burning. This goes on for about 10 seconds. I get out, look around, see nothing, drive it. Get home and let it sit for a bit before going to check my oil before going to an appointment. I check it and it's really low (still above the L) despite having just checked it and had it nearly full last week.



I start looking around and oil is EVERYWHERE under the car. It's over the front right (Transmission) side of the crank case, the bottom right side of the crank case, the bottom left side of the transmission, the plate that separates the transmission from the motor, the differential housing, and the right rear side of the motor, and along the support in the middle of the engine. Left rear (belt) side of the motor is dry aside from some normal seepage at one spot. Front left has a little on it but that's probably just left over from oil changes.



I've checked the oil filter and it's tight. Fired up the car and revved it gently a few times, nothing. Let it idle, nothing. I can't see anything leaking or spraying at all. Then yesterday I'm driving it and idling for some time at a stop, and I can see puffs of smoke in the headlights of the car behind me and faintly smell oil burning. While driving it doesn't seem to be emitting smoke, but the wind could be taking care of it and it was raining to boot. The day before I saw nothing however. No spots in the driveway either, and the oil that was on it was mostly caked on with dirt, with just a small bit running down the center support under the engine.



I was going to get under it and try to clean it up to find the source of the leak before taking it to my mechanic. I can't imagine my oil pan gasket would just fail like that and spray everywhere. Valve cover is leaking no more than it's normal bit of seepage. Drain plug, oil cap, and dip stick are tight. I can't imagine it's leaking out of the oil pump or pressure sender and not some how getting on the back left side of the engine. The burning smell is there every cold start. It's hard to tell but I don't see it leaving spots when I drive it



The transmission always did have a little oil around the border of the metal plate that is where it seals to the engine, but I assumed this was left over from another mishap in the past. Any thoughts on what this leak could be?



EDIT: Cleaning this is an effort in futility However, to add details, the oil does not appear to have extended past the firewall/engine bay on the under side of the car, and the oil on the diff is limited to the left (passenger axle) side of it.

ALL SCION SHOW 8.0...It's BACK!!!

WWW.ALLSCIONSHOW.COM



This is the Scion Show you don't want to miss! Did I mention.....it's indoors.......



May 13th,14th,and 15th at Wilson Toyota in Ames, IA

The longest running All Scion Show in the Midwest



*BoS Trophy that you won't be able to take home...at least not with this bunch!(Never a dissappointment)

*Catering from Battles BBQ (with some special items just for us!(GREAT FOOD)

*PIE PIE PIE PIE PIE!!!! NOBODY will anticipate the flavor this year...(Contest of champions)

95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??

I have a 95 4runner 2wd with the 3.0 V6 and the auto transmission. Transmission will not shift at all on its own but shifts very smooth without problems when shifted manually through the gears. The O/D light also flashes.



I kinda doubt all the shift solenoids would go bad at once...is there a shift control module or sensor that could be causing this? Truck only has 145K and hasn't been abused at all.



Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Reply 1 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??

1MZFEfan,



Will it shift down to low and not up shift or does it stay in high gear making it difficult to move?

Reply 2 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??

When you first put it in D it starts out in either 2nd or 3rd gear making it impossible to move. You have to put it in 1 and manually shift it through to D. I don't believe it is using Overdrive either. It has shifted down maybe once or twice on it's own but it won't up shift at all on it's own.

Reply 3 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??

make sure your throttle postionns sensor is hooked up. I just did a engine swap and had the same problem and tht was the issue. forgot to plug it i. so if it comes undone or is bad then that will be ur issue. is u check engine light on?

Reply 4 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??

hi i got same truck the same problem too.. i got code #42 (vss n0.1) .. but everything works on my speedometer.... ive change the vss on tranny still the same thing.. i'm wondering if its just the cable or do i have to change my speedo? help pls.

Reply 5 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1MZFEfan ... The O/D light also flashes.

That's telling you a trouble code has been stored in the ECM, read it and go from there.

Reply 6 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mantis hi i got same truck the same problem too.. i got code #42 (vss n0.1) .. but everything works on my speedometer.... ive change the vss on tranny still the same thing.. i'm wondering if its just the cable or do i have to change my speedo? help pls.

That VSS is part of the speedo, but it doesn't affect operation of the speedo. I don't think it can be replaced except by replacing the speedo.