Saturday, March 26, 2011
Please help looked i tire section and search could not find answer...
Hello, new to the forum. I have a 2009 camry se 4cyl, with 17" inch stock alloy wheels. I need to replace all four tires which are 215/55/17
What is the widest tire I can put without adding spacers or anything else.
Just want a little wider stockier look.
thank you for your help...
Radio, Dome, Door lights do not work!
My radio, Dome and Door lights do not work. My clock also resets everytime I turn the car off. I have checked all of the fuses and they were good. I then checked the current to all of those fuses and there is no current coming through. Is there a relay that controls this? Any Ideas?
cv boot replacement
My drivers side cv boot is busted and leaking. Is there another alternative to having to replace the entire axle?
Reply 1 : cv boot replacement
yes, just get a boot kit.
it will come with two boots, two packs of grease, 4 clamps.
Reply 2 : cv boot replacement
Quote:
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Originally Posted by 6shooter 
yes, just get a boot kit.
it will come with two boots, two packs of grease, 4 clamps. |
Reply 3 : cv boot replacement
Quote:
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Originally Posted by R0dzilla7
From where?
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Reply 4 : cv boot replacement
I paid 49.99 plus tax. Stealership.
Reply 5 : cv boot replacement
About $30 for one boot kit from Sparks or Toyota of Dallas (TRDparts4u). I've done two now and know I ordered from one of those dealers...just don't remember which one.
Reply 6 : cv boot replacement
Quote:
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Originally Posted by sntckr
About $30 for one boot kit from Sparks or Toyota of Dallas (TRDparts4u). I've done two now and know I ordered from one of those dealers...just don't remember which one.
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Reply 7 : cv boot replacement
Quote:
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Originally Posted by R0dzilla7
ive heard its a bitch changing them out.....take the axle off and what not. not cool
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I've got two spares in my garage, so if a boot ever does go on me, I can swap it and rebuild the busted one with out keeping the truck out of commission.
DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
I was asked by a couple of people to do a DIY after I swapped my stock bulbs for LEDs. I beg for forgiveness in advance, it's my first DIY write up. This will stop hyperblinking cause by installing LEDs.
I used some photos other than those of my car because 1. it's too cold outside and 2. i'm kind of ashamed at how dirty my car is right now.
Approximate time to complete: 30 min.
Tools needed: Flat heat Screwdriver
Electrical Tape
Items I used for Install:
V-leds Switchback... Be sure to purchase CK type or you will blow fuses
24 LED Towers for Rear.. Mine depict 1157 because I installed into
Aftermarket LED Tails. Regular tail lights use 3157 bulbs
Pair of 3 Ohm Resistors from V-LEDs and Electrical Splice Connectors
Step1:
Install led bulbs
Remove these two clips and pull back carpet to expose back of tail light
Swap out turn signal bulb.. this would be the passenger side photo
To get to the front turn signal bulbs there is a push clip and a clip that uses a quarter turn (has a screw type head) to remove at the arrows. Remove these clips then pull back wheel well liner just enough to get your hand in to install new led bulbs.
If you open the hood you will be able to look down from above to see what you are doing.
2. Install Load Resistors
Take nut off of bolt with arrow pointing to it. This is where you will mount load resistor.
Connect one resistor wire to the green wire, the other to the white. I always wrap my connections with electrical tape as a precaution.
This is what your final result will look like.
Do the Same on the other side and close everything up.
Notes:
-Resistors will get hot when turn signals are on, the metal will dissipate most of the heat but make sure wires are not touching it.
-Resistors can be turned to face rear, there is more than enough room to do so.
-This is for a front and rear led setup. if you were to have just front or rear you would need to install 6 ohm resistors at the location of the leds.
Any questions let me know.
Reply 1 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
nice write up man! how much did u spend on the bulbs? also why didnt u just go with installing a led electronic flasher? i think that would have saved u all the wire clipping
Reply 2 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
I would have used an electronic flasher, but everything i have read online from others is thatit is difficult to find. Plus, i would rather not rip the dash apart.
$60.00 for the swirchbacks and $20.00 for the rear turn signals.
Reply 3 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
Very nice for a first writeup!
*Added to DIY Sticky thread*
Reply 4 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
how hot do the resistors get? what happens at night when you have your lights on since your parking lights are your turn signals?
Reply 5 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
Quote:
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Originally Posted by diablo2184
how hot do the resistors get? what happens at night when you have your lights on since your parking lights are your turn signals?
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Reply 6 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
i thought the turn signals are its own bulb....
i want to change the amber bulbs in the front headlights and taillights to LED bulbs. i am going to need resistors correct? on the headlights, the parking light is the same as the turn signal right? so wont that bulb always be on if i change it? and then flash when i use the blinkers?
Reply 7 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
Quote:
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Originally Posted by diablo2184
i thought the turn signals are its own bulb....
i want to change the amber bulbs in the front headlights and taillights to LED bulbs. i am going to need resistors correct? on the headlights, the parking light is the same as the turn signal right? so wont that bulb always be on if i change it? and then flash when i use the blinkers? |
Reply 8 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
but will i need the resistors for the front turn signals as well?
Reply 9 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
the resistors on the rear is enough to put a load on the flasher relay. an easier approach would be getting a electronic flasher relay (which i could have sworn our corollas had from factory) and replacing that. then resistors wouldnt be needed at all.
Reply 10 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
so i wont have any issues with the front since its the same bulb (parking lights and turn signals)?
i heard that the electronic flasher relay prevents the light flashing when locking the car.....
Reply 11 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
Quote:
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Originally Posted by diablo2184
so i wont have any issues with the front since its the same bulb (parking lights and turn signals)?
i heard that the electronic flasher relay prevents the light flashing when locking the car..... |
you wont have any problems with the parking lights, its a whole different circuit. on the other hand the turn signals will still need the resistor connected to the circuit even if you only changed the front bulb.
i dont really know about the electronic flasher relay preventing flashing...that someone must be a guinea pig.
Reply 12 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
ok, i understand the rear section completely. i know i need the resistors so it doesnt cause them to flash fast. the rear bulb is only on when i turn the indicators on.
for the fronts, there is on bulb that is dual filament and it is the parking light (lights up orange when you turn your headlight switch to the first click). then when you hit the assembly to turn on your indicator signal left or right, the same bulb up front starts to flash. do you understand where i am coming from?
that was my initial question.....in reference to the Front turn signals, since they are also the parking lights, will the resistors get too hot when driving at night?
Reply 13 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
Quote:
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Originally Posted by diablo2184
ok, i understand the rear section completely. i know i need the resistors so it doesnt cause them to flash fast. the rear bulb is only on when i turn the indicators on.
for the fronts, there is on bulb that is dual filament and it is the parking light (lights up orange when you turn your headlight switch to the first click). then when you hit the assembly to turn on your indicator signal left or right, the same bulb up front starts to flash. do you understand where i am coming from? that was my initial question.....in reference to the Front turn signals, since they are also the parking lights, will the resistors get too hot when driving at night? |
Image from V-Leds
hopefully that picture helps.
Reply 14 : DIY: Stock to LED Turn Signal Swap
ok got ya. so if i will need four resistors? one for each turn signal bulb?
Oily Mess!
There is a bit of a story here, so hang with me: I've thought for awhile my car has leaking valve guides/steam seals due to it smoking a bit on start up and using some oil (quart/1000 miles). No big deal right?
A few days ago I was out driving, and went to accelerate. Car hesitated a bit and I noticed for the rest of the drive the engine sounded a little flat. Given as I had just gone over rail road tracks and I've had a rusty baffle in my muffler for awhile now I figured it had just broken free. The flat sound didn't go away, and while the power seems to be there it's using more fuel.
Fast forward to a couple days ago. I get the car and start it and notice a burning smell. Not an oil burning smell, but like something rubber or a gasket burning. This goes on for about 10 seconds. I get out, look around, see nothing, drive it. Get home and let it sit for a bit before going to check my oil before going to an appointment. I check it and it's really low (still above the L) despite having just checked it and had it nearly full last week.
I start looking around and oil is EVERYWHERE under the car. It's over the front right (Transmission) side of the crank case, the bottom right side of the crank case, the bottom left side of the transmission, the plate that separates the transmission from the motor, the differential housing, and the right rear side of the motor, and along the support in the middle of the engine. Left rear (belt) side of the motor is dry aside from some normal seepage at one spot. Front left has a little on it but that's probably just left over from oil changes.
I've checked the oil filter and it's tight. Fired up the car and revved it gently a few times, nothing. Let it idle, nothing. I can't see anything leaking or spraying at all. Then yesterday I'm driving it and idling for some time at a stop, and I can see puffs of smoke in the headlights of the car behind me and faintly smell oil burning. While driving it doesn't seem to be emitting smoke, but the wind could be taking care of it and it was raining to boot. The day before I saw nothing however. No spots in the driveway either, and the oil that was on it was mostly caked on with dirt, with just a small bit running down the center support under the engine.
I was going to get under it and try to clean it up to find the source of the leak before taking it to my mechanic. I can't imagine my oil pan gasket would just fail like that and spray everywhere. Valve cover is leaking no more than it's normal bit of seepage. Drain plug, oil cap, and dip stick are tight. I can't imagine it's leaking out of the oil pump or pressure sender and not some how getting on the back left side of the engine. The burning smell is there every cold start. It's hard to tell but I don't see it leaving spots when I drive it
The transmission always did have a little oil around the border of the metal plate that is where it seals to the engine, but I assumed this was left over from another mishap in the past. Any thoughts on what this leak could be?
EDIT: Cleaning this is an effort in futility
However, to add details, the oil does not appear to have extended past the firewall/engine bay on the under side of the car, and the oil on the diff is limited to the left (passenger axle) side of it.
Friday, March 25, 2011
ALL SCION SHOW 8.0...It's BACK!!!
WWW.ALLSCIONSHOW.COM
This is the Scion Show you don't want to miss! Did I mention.....it's indoors.......
May 13th,14th,and 15th at Wilson Toyota in Ames, IA
The longest running All Scion Show in the Midwest
*BoS Trophy that you won't be able to take home...at least not with this bunch!(Never a dissappointment)
*Catering from Battles BBQ (with some special items just for us!(GREAT FOOD)
*PIE PIE PIE PIE PIE!!!! NOBODY will anticipate the flavor this year...(Contest of champions)
95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??
I have a 95 4runner 2wd with the 3.0 V6 and the auto transmission. Transmission will not shift at all on its own but shifts very smooth without problems when shifted manually through the gears. The O/D light also flashes.
I kinda doubt all the shift solenoids would go bad at once...is there a shift control module or sensor that could be causing this? Truck only has 145K and hasn't been abused at all.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Reply 1 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??
1MZFEfan,
Will it shift down to low and not up shift or does it stay in high gear making it difficult to move?
Reply 2 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??
When you first put it in D it starts out in either 2nd or 3rd gear making it impossible to move. You have to put it in 1 and manually shift it through to D. I don't believe it is using Overdrive either. It has shifted down maybe once or twice on it's own but it won't up shift at all on it's own.
Reply 3 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??
make sure your throttle postionns sensor is hooked up. I just did a engine swap and had the same problem and tht was the issue. forgot to plug it i. so if it comes undone or is bad then that will be ur issue. is u check engine light on?
Reply 4 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??
hi i got same truck the same problem too.. i got code #42 (vss n0.1) .. but everything works on my speedometer.... ive change the vss on tranny still the same thing.. i'm wondering if its just the cable or do i have to change my speedo? help pls.
Reply 5 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??
Quote:
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Originally Posted by 1MZFEfan
... The O/D light also flashes.
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Reply 6 : 95 3VZFE 3.0 Auto Transmission only shifts manually??
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Mantis
hi i got same truck the same problem too.. i got code #42 (vss n0.1) .. but everything works on my speedometer.... ive change the vss on tranny still the same thing.. i'm wondering if its just the cable or do i have to change my speedo? help pls.
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Hesitation on empty tank.
Alright so I've been looking around a lot and asking questions, and am not getting any concluding answers.
Its quite simple the truck runs fine in general no issues, since about 2 years and it starts up fine cold or warm weather.
The problem is, when the tank gets just about to quarter if I start up quick from a stop, the engine stops accelerating then resumes acceleration gradually and sometimes it just keeps happening 'til I shift it. Once I reach cruising speed it stops doing that.
Another thing that is becoming more of an issue now that I go to school in an area with many steep hills, I can't climb hills, its like the gas ends up at the bottom end of the tank and that the pump can't get to it. Sometimes I struggle up a hill with a few acceleration spikes all the way up.
So what is happening exactly? The pump seems fine.
Reply 1 : Hesitation on empty tank.
Toypick,
Well I have a few thoughts.
1) Has your rig been tampered with as far as the fuel tank is concerend. In other words is your tank stock?
2) The up hill and acceleration issue sounds like the pump is cavatatiing when the fuel moves to the back of the tank when low.
3) When it reads 1/4 tank how far can you go before you run out?
4)) Also in the tank there is a holding pit around the fuel pump to keep that type of problem from happening. So maybe that has come loose and the fuel moves to the back of the tank and causes fuel pump cavitation on a low fuel level.
Reply 2 : Hesitation on empty tank.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by jetwhine
Toypick,
Well I have a few thoughts. 1) Has your rig been tampered with as far as the fuel tank is concerend. In other words is your tank stock? 2) The up hill and acceleration issue sounds like the pump is cavatatiing when the fuel moves to the back of the tank when low. 3) When it reads 1/4 tank how far can you go before you run out? 4)) Also in the tank there is a holding pit around the fuel pump to keep that type of problem from happening. So maybe that has come loose and the fuel moves to the back of the tank and causes fuel pump cavitation on a low fuel level. |
The pump SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN CHANGED because there was some weird fiberglass around it which appeared to me as a redneck gasket.
IF I'M NOT MISTAKENED IN MY HYPOTHESIS, I would believe that the fuel pump should be SITTING in this PIT, and right now as we speak it seems as the filter hangs a littler HIGHER so would the pump assembly be replaced with something that is not exactly stock?
Reply 3 : Hesitation on empty tank.
Toypick,
I would suspect you have been had with the wrong pump. That pump should be very close to the bottom of the tank and sitting inside of the baffle for the fuel surge when going up hill and acceleration. You need to look at a pump assy. that should be installed in your tank and see what the difference is. Chances are that you might have to find the Toyota housing that the pump bolts onto to get the right depth. It sounds like a make shift pump assy. With as mentioned Jim Crow gasket. The typical pump bolts on with out issues.
Reply 4 : Hesitation on empty tank.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by jetwhine
Toypick,
I would suspect you have been had with the wrong pump. That pump should be very close to the bottom of the tank and sitting inside of the baffle for the fuel surge when going up hill and acceleration. You need to look at a pump assy. that should be installed in your tank and see what the difference is. Chances are that you might have to find the Toyota housing that the pump bolts onto to get the right depth. It sounds like a make shift pump assy. With as mentioned Jim Crow gasket. The typical pump bolts on with out issues. |
Reply 5 : Hesitation on empty tank.
Toypick,
You might have to go to a junkyard and find an assy. Or buy one from Toyota which will be more than you would probably want to pay. Also make a few measurements to see if it is the right housing. I betting it is not. That pump should be very close to the bottom of the tank.
Another tire thread...
Hey guys, I just finished reading search results for tire recommendations and still came up short. Here's what I'm looking at:
2004 Double cab, 4x4 Tundra. The original set of tires is due for replacement now around 41,000 miles. Comparing that to my previous 1993 4Runner 4x4 that got close to 80,000 miles from it's OEM Duelers.
I'm looking for a tire that gives the same performance on the Tundra. 99% on-road, little snow or mud. Mostly highway driving, yet the Tundra really seems to destroy the tires.
Also, it would be nice to get them for less than $200 each, installed but I may be dreaming...
Thanks for the help!
What Other year Parts can I Use?
I Have a 1991 Toyota Corolla dx sedan. And I Was stupid Enough to let my friend cut the springs :[[ I Mean IT WAS BAD ASS! It really does look good!
<a href="http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l574/ssevo713/?action=view¤t=76625_141637989218460_1000011 677935.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l574/ssevo713/76625_141637989218460_1000011677935.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>
It Looks Clean as hell! But This was THE DAY they were done. I Didnt realize how much More it would dropped. x/ Now My Car is Lop sided sort of. and i have a torn CV boot on the passenger side and My Alignment needs to be redone :/ Now im just going to put it back up to stock height, BUT! new springs are expensive! and the Junkyards around here are SURPRISINGLY scarce with my car, soo I Wanted to know what years are compatible with the springs? Cause there's a guy on craigslist here, who has a 1994 corolla that he's parting out, Im sure that the springs might be the same?..
AGAIN Im not 100% sure. so is it or not?? ALSO!
I Need new headlamos but again with new parts and my car. Can i ALSO use the 93's headlights? I Dont Care if there's Modification involved, I just want to know if the grille will still click in place? Or are MOST of the nuts still in the same place?
I Would Like To know all This information Before I Go and Buy parts to experiment..
THANKS!
Reply 1 : What Other year Parts can I Use?
hey man, if you look at my link below of signature, itll take you to my build page, it has a full write up on putting the 93-02 suspension on your 91 corolla. what your going to need is the 93+ top hat, strut and springs if you want to go that route... itll all bolt up, just that the 93+ springs are bigger than the 90's corollas are, so that is why your going to need to get the whole strut assembly.
Reply 2 : What Other year Parts can I Use?
Thanks man, I'd really Like to do it and all and i even read about someone installing a sway bar. It all sounds great! But im really trying not to put extensive time and money into it because Its My Daily Driver Im 18 i still go to school and i work and no one really helps me out. im just trying to get my car back to stock...
UNFORTUNATELY! the reason why, is because im going to be selling next year around income tax to get an '08 Lancer GTS but im trying to maximize my profits without spending to much money...
Reply 3 : What Other year Parts can I Use?
yeah i understand... wells i dont know if youll even get anything outta the car though, they dont usually ell for much, i bought mine for $800 and im a enthusias of the car. but then again gas here in cali i now at a all time high at $4 a gallon for 87, so maybe... but yeah, even if you do most of the things me or mot people, you wouldnt get much outta it, its more of a satisfaction of driving it, than profitting from it... but best of luck and yeah i wish i kept mine from when i was 18 LoL! you always go back to the begining...
Questions about 2005 Corolla
I bought my 2005 LE in July 2005. Some point since I have had the car it was making a noise, hard to tell where it is coming from. They put foam around where the wires in the trunk. It did better for awhile but not sure that is where the problem is. There never appears to be a reason for why it does it or when it does it. It does not do it all the time either. My son thinks who sits back seat now thinks it is the ceiling area that does it. It was in warranty when I took it the other time but did not fix it. Its annoying when it does it. It would be hard to tell what it is or where unless they had someone back there. I am not sure what to do about it. It is driving me crazy. I love the car other than that.
Also I have considered putting a spoiler on the back. Not sure where to get it if I do?.
Reply 1 : Questions about 2005 Corolla
The rear deck plastic on my corolla rattles. I put foam tape where the side trim gap meets the deck and problem solved.
shocks
I get a shake in the front end when going over bumpy roads. can feel in steering wheel. Had alignment checked and balanced the wheels. Garage said shocks could cause this. This is a 2004 tacoma 4x4 with factory beilstein shocks. Vehicle has 49,000 miles Need replacing already?
Reply 1 : shocks
Hawaiian 4x4 on OEM suspension?
Does it seem to float around, extra bouncy-maybe just one side? This is how I would describe a bad strut(s). Do much suspension flexing? Hard offroading? Could be a bad shock or strut. Possibly loose or broken sway bar mount. I installed a receiver hitch years ago and started getting a knocking sensation through the steering wheel, and any passagers would say they could feel it through their floorboard. For a week or so I thought it was a ghost somewheres in the suspension. Turned out to be that stupid piece that slips in the hitch bouncing at every bump in the road.
NAV DVD for E7011
I need to purchase the navigation DVD for the E7011 (Denso 86120-06460) navigation system I'm retrofitting into my 09 TCH. Would someone please let me know which disk I need to purchase (Gen 5 or Gen 6) U3X or U9X?
Thank you.
need to change VVT-i time of 2ZR
hi every body
i have corolla 09 LE 1.8 and in few days ago i noticed there is a knocking sound coming from the engine appears only when the engine is warm and when i went to toyota dealer they tolled me its normal "when car starts cold the ECM generate spark in retard position to warm up the engine and when the engine is warm enough the ECM change the spark time to advance position and that + bad fuel type whats generating the knocking sound"
my quastion is there any way or modification i can make to change the vvt cam sensore position to keep the signal in retarded case
Reply 1 : need to change VVT-i time of 2ZR
What is the octane rating of the fuel you are currently using?
Reply 2 : need to change VVT-i time of 2ZR
its very bad fuel (the only type available) i think 85 or less. i also tryied to use some octane booster but they all useless
Reply 3 : need to change VVT-i time of 2ZR
Does it sound like this: http://www.supload.com/sound_confirm.php?get=296253414.wav
My thread about the noise I have: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=338984
Reply 4 : need to change VVT-i time of 2ZR
I think our car is designed to run on min 87 octane, the sound you are hearing is more likely to be engine pinging....
Reply 5 : need to change VVT-i time of 2ZR
John Mo no the sound is diffrent it happen during rapid acceleration and the engine is warm (same sound of having a bad old spark plug in the car)
Reply 6 : need to change VVT-i time of 2ZR
Better fuel is your first step. Try that and see what happens.
Tailgate access panel
I've got a 86 standard cab pickup. Its missing the rear access cover for the tailgate handle. I am having massive troubles locating one online or in local junkyards.... Anyone that has one, I would love to buy it off you. Doesn't matter the color. Thanks.
replacing headlight is a hassle?
Do we have to remove the front bumper cover and grill to get to the bottom screws of a headlight? What's the deal? Thanks!
Autocrossing your AE92
If you own an AE92, you probably can't afford to go out and buy a Porsche GT-3, or even a Lotus Elise to go club racing.
An affordable alternative to satisfy your need for speed, learn the limits of your car, and develop useful car control skills is autocross.
The best way to start, is to search for a sports car club in your area, and join up.
From my experience, the more experienced autocrossers are all too willing to share what they have learned, so just ask nicely.
Before you mess with your car, go to the SCCA website and look up the car classes and see what the restrictions are. You can find yourself at the bottom of a very competitive class with what you thought were minor modifications.
http://www.scca.com/hub.aspx?hub=3&I...0&x=050|010&~=
The next thing to do, is check out your car.
Things the tech officer at my club look for are:
*All your lug nuts must be present.
*Battery secure, and positive terminal covered.
*Solid brake feel.
*Solid steering feel.
*No excessive fluid leaks (if your car leaves a puddle on the ground, no go)
Good tires. You quickly learn that cheap all-season tires don't make for good times. You don't need to break the bank for tires, but after you have tried autocrossing a few times, and decide you want to keep at it, you will probably want to look for some good tires for the class you are running. Tires will probably be your greatest expense. I use an all season tire on the street, and have a second set of wheels and tires just for autocross. It seems expensive to do that, but my street tires don't deliver good autocross times, and my autocross tires wouldn't last long on the street.
I had been using Kuhmo tires on the street, and Falken Azenis tires for autocross only.
The Falkens have lasted about two and a half years (9 events each year).
I now use Nitto all seasons on the street and am changing to Nitto NT-01s for autocross.
It is recommended that you run about 8-10 lbs above your street tire pressure.
Good suspension is absolutely necessary. There again you don't need to break the bank. In the stock classes, all you need is good working shocks.
If your shocks are shot, I suggest you upgrade at least to a set of KYB GR-2s. If you can afford it, Koni yellow adjustables are reputed to be the best street/track shocks.
I have used K-Sport pro coil-over shocks, and found their adjustability to be very helpful in setting up my car for competition, but they don't suit me for the street. Too hard.
There again, check the rules befopre you do any modification.
Sway bars are allowed to be added in some classes. They help keep the car from leaning during cornering (body roll) and keeping all four tires gripping the pavement.
You need to know what you are doing with those, or you can throw off the balance of the car.
Stiffer rear sway bar will give you more oversteer, and a stiffer front will give you more understeer.
Oversteer is when the rear of the car wants to go wide, causing the car to want to spin around.
Understeer is when the front wants to go wide, causing the car to want to go straight.
A well balanced front wheel drive car, will want to understeer in fast sweeper corners if you are accellerating, and then want to oversteer if you lift off the throttle. Idealy the amount of understeer and oversteer should be controlable with throttle modulation (throttle steer), and not be violent enough to overwhelm your hand movements.
If your club offers an autocross school, GO TO IT!!!
If not, get a seasoned member to ride with you on the track and give you some pointers and critisizim.
Reply 1 : Autocrossing your AE92
STICKY!
Good info Donald!
Reply 2 : Autocrossing your AE92
has anybody tracked with kumho ecsta xs yet??? some miata guys said its really good..
i'm getting some front tires asap so lmk...
Reply 3 : Autocrossing your AE92
Corollas are in the H Stock (HS) class. Without knowing much about autox, I'm guessing that class is ruled by the Datsun 510.
As Donald touched on, modded cars aren't the way to be competitive in autocross. Keep it stock, make whatever slight changes are allowed by the rules, and have fun. It's about the driver, not the car.
Has anyone besides Donald 'crossed their AE92 yet?
Reply 4 : Autocrossing your AE92
ive been doing it for a few years now. Its a blast if you get alot of time out there, its such a drive for me an i spend alot of time waiting for runs, which is why im building a drift car now to get more driving time..
Like mentioned above, go to the driving schools !! you can gain alot of experience by going to these an having instructor ride alongs ! Well worth the time & money !
autocrossing a car stock is just as fun as a modified car... its all about how competitive you want to be, either way you can throw your car around in a SAFE environment for you an your car & not get into any trouble..
Tires are a huge deal !! i was running all seasons my first year cause thats just what i had... i rode along in another corolla with Falken Azenis & been hooked on those tires ever since, there cheap! they dont wear fast at all & they have amazing grip !!
like donald said, you dont have to break the bank, just get out there an do it, have fun, an slowely progress the mods on your car.. this is my modding broke down
first year
completely stock other then intake, exhaust, header
second year
New wheels with Azenis, 4 point harness, new suspension/wheel bearings, trunk mounted batt
third year
4agze swap !! racing seats. This was probly the best year & most fun ive ever had autocrossing !! the 4agze is a blast on a autox track!!
fourth year
im turbo now & do to issues early in the season i missed my driving schools & havnt been able to get the the track.. ahh well maybe next year !!
~Dan
Reply 5 : Autocrossing your AE92
wider tires = faster times
Reply 6 : Autocrossing your AE92
I've had mine on the track several times..... but the mr2's are much more fun out there.....
though, the rainy, tight course I took the ae92 out on, it did awesome out there....
was running in novice (new to the group) and came in 4th behind an STI, 2000? Miata, and an Evo 9.... there were 24 or so cars in that novice event.
the ae92's are great.... but if you plan to auto-x in a stock class, find a gt-s for sure.
Reply 7 : Autocrossing your AE92
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by jmaz87
has anybody tracked with kumho ecsta xs yet??? some miata guys said its really good..
i'm getting some front tires asap so lmk... |
They dont have them in my size though (205/50/15)
Reply 8 : Autocrossing your AE92
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Donald
I also have heard that they are good.
They dont have them in my size though (205/50/15) |
http://www.kumhousa.com/Tire_SizeCha...7-2bea0466bd5c
Kumho XSs are great. My girlfriend is running them on her Miata (the same size as you donald
) and I've driven it a few times and really liked them, next season I will be switching from Falken Azenis on the rx-7 to Kumho XSs (and they have the right size for me 275/40/17 
)
Reply 9 : Autocrossing your AE92
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ghostyman
Has anyone besides Donald 'crossed their AE92 yet?
|
I was autocrossing with my 4A-F and my all-seasons but I still could keep up with my friends in their imprezas on all seasons
it's definitely a fun car to auto-x.I would definitely recommend to just get out and do it... A lot of people wait and wait because their car isn't ready yet or they don't have good tires, but it's really just as fun just to get out there on all seasons. you're not going to be competitive your first time out anyway. At least not in my region... (we have a ridiculous amount of national champions)
If you do want to auto-x seriously, pay close attention to the rule book, it's really easy to get thrown into a tough class like donald said. You don't want to swap in a 7AFE and get thrown in Street Modified with turbo monsters
Reply 10 : Autocrossing your AE92
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by eage8
yeah they do!
http://www.kumhousa.com/Tire_SizeCha...7-2bea0466bd5c Kumho XSs are great. My girlfriend is running them on her Miata (the same size as you donald ) and I've driven it a few times and really liked them, next season I will be switching from Falken Azenis on the rx-7 to Kumho XSs (and they have the right size for me 275/40/17 ) |
Discount Tire don't list that size, so I thought it was not available.
I have been very pleased with the Nittos, but I will try the Kumhos next
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by eage8
I would definitely recommend to just get out and do it... If you do want to auto-x seriously, pay close attention to the rule book, it's really easy to get thrown into a tough class like donald said. You don't want to swap in a 7AFE and get thrown in Street Modified with turbo monsters |
Reply 11 : Autocrossing your AE92
I've never actually "AutoX" as in a parking lot with cones...
i have done a few club-rented road courses here in Gainesville and they usually change it each time a bit but i was so out-classed and we were racing together... vipers, shelby kits, ls1 s14's, SC'd miata, and a full race neon...
up-side is i could take corners wide if i was too slow so i had plenty of track time!!!
do any guys boostin have heat issues???
i didn't like how close stock radiators get to my turbo so i have aluminum crx rad but on a really hot day on that course i'd get 3 laps in before id have to watch my temp or it would go up to 250...i'm either gonna add a second smaller radiator on the heator core routing up front or find a decent full-size that fits proper...
is anybody else on an 8in wide rim? right now im running 205/45-16 but i will go to 215/45-16 with the XS's hopefully this month...
(just got act clutch
)
Reply 12 : Autocrossing your AE92
here is an image- center lane is usually pit area
Reply 13 : Autocrossing your AE92
Reply 14 : Autocrossing your AE92
Yep!!
Looks like you are up against sone $eriou$ competition.
Radio/dash clock stays on when ignition is off
I have a 1993 pickup, v6, 3L. and when i shut my truck off, my radio will stay on as well as my clock, could it be that my ignition switch needs to be replaced?
Reply 1 : Radio/dash clock stays on when ignition is off
Hello, yes i would check there first.
HID dissapointmnet...
So I have 6k on my low beam and installed 3k on my fogs trying to get that JDM look. Turns out, the fogs look just like my stock bulbs except they have that bright yellow light which is what i wanted. But I was looking for both, the brightness and JDM look... Any other 3K fogs I could use to get that look? Would appreciate the help!
Reply 1 : HID dissapointmnet...
Did you re-aim your headlights? Looks like they are aiming too low, maybe just the angle of the pictures.
Since day one, we have been telling people, HID won't perform well on stock halogen reflector housings, not to mention it brings alot of glare to you and other drivers on the road. Retro fit projector is the only way to go if you go HID.
To achieve the JDM look, you don't really need HID.
My setup, mtec super white on lowbeam and nokya hyper yellow on fog. I am more than happy with the output and color.
Reply 2 : HID dissapointmnet...
Using a HID setup in a housing that was designed as a halogen reflector type is not going to put the light where you want it. These will help ----->
Reply 3 : HID dissapointmnet...
Quote:
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Originally Posted by shotgunjimmy
Using a HID setup in a housing that was designed as a halogen reflector type is not going to put the light where you want it. These will help ----->
|
Reply 4 : HID dissapointmnet...
thanks, I'm getting them tonight.
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